Denali Project — 6,190 m Alaska

The project

A bit of history
and geography

In the wild reaches of Alaska stands the majestic Denali, the highest peak in North America, offering both formidable technical challenges and breathtaking panoramas. Some 210 kilometers north of Anchorage, this mountain towers over a sea of glaciers and a succession of other peaks that make up the Alaska Range. Mount Denali has a greater elevation gain than the "roof of the world," Everest, even though the latter surpasses it by about 2,700 meters as measured from sea level.

Everest's base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at approximately 5,200 meters altitude, representing a vertical elevation of 3,600 meters. In contrast, Mount Denali's base lies at 700 meters altitude on a vast plateau, representing a vertical elevation of 5,500 meters. Five glaciers descend from the slopes of Denali, some reaching 70 to 80 kilometers in length.

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The story

At 5,200 meters,
a choice had to be made

"I set off for Denali wanting to confront something big. Not just a summit, but a situation where everything is at stake: the body, the mind, the team, the elements.

The expedition begins in Talkeetna -- ranger briefing, final preparations. Then takeoff in a bush plane, landing directly on the Ruth Glacier at the foot of the East Face. A vast, austere, magnificent white expanse.

Within the first few days, we lose a teammate. He broke down physically. Too hard, too soon. He went back down with a guide. It immediately reminds you that up there, nothing is guaranteed. And that the mountain sorts you out without mercy. We push on. The ascent is done in stages -- we set up camps, carry loads, break trail. The cold is constant, but bearable as long as you keep moving.

We reach 5,200 meters altitude. There, we are truly in the thick of it. Little margin, little respite. The summit is still above, but it becomes tangible. Camp 5 is within reach. We descend back to Camp 4 to rest and organize for the push. And that is when everything changes. A storm pins us down for several days. Violent wind, temperatures between -30 and -60 degrees Celsius. Impossible to advance. Morale takes hits. The cold seeps in. We manage the wear and tear. During this hold, a second teammate develops frostbite -- hands, feet, serious. The weather continues to close in. No more reliable windows. At that point, there is no glorious option left: we make the decision to descend urgently, all together. A 4,500-meter descent down to the glacier through the night, loaded up, focused, each in our own bubble.

I came back. The summit, this time, will remain above. But what I experienced up there has already taught me a great deal. The effort, the clear-headedness, the strength of the team, the act of letting go... And despite all of that -- or perhaps because of all of it -- it was an incredible adventure."

Press kit